Wine Wisdom: Loire Valley the 'bargain garden of France'

While France is the source of the world's most expensive wines, it's also home to some of the planet's best wine values from its less well-known wine regions.

Foremost among these is the Loire Valley, an area wine guru Robert Parker describes as the "bargain garden of France." Producing a surprising diversity of wine, France's third largest wine region stretches 600 miles, encompassing 60 appellations that create delicious, food friendly wines. Even top vineyards sell for modest prices. I'm always blown away by the superb quality and appeal of Loire Valley wines.

Exporting 22 percent of its wines, the vast majority remain within France. Paris is the main market for Loire wines, reflecting the esteem the French have for the region. American importers of Loire wines are highly selective, narrowing their offerings to the best this region produces. The result in American stores is quality and value unequalled by few alternatives.

Adventurous wine lovers get out of their comfort zone and discover new and different treats. Here are Loire wines offering terrific value:

Sancerre. Most Americans know and enjoy whites from sauvignon blanc. Wine retailers' shelves overflow with New Zealand, Californian, South African and, recently, Chilean wines from this highly popular grape. Yet, the gold standard for sauvignon blanc remains the Loire Valley's Sancerre appellation.

In contrast to New World sauvignon blancs that tend to have a ripe fruity taste with flavors of apple, pineapple and tropical fruits, Old World sauvignon blancs from Sancerre are better, finer, and more complex. Characterized as bone dry with a strong mineral element, they are superbly balanced, refined, rich, elegant and floral. With distinct flavors of grass, lemon, grapefruit and melon, their expressive minerality results from grapes grown in unique soils of Kimmeridgian limestone.

Celestin Blondeau's 2007 Cuvee des Moulins Bales Sancerre ($19) is dry and heavenly, with mineral and subtle fruit flavors. Its 12.5 percent alcohol nicely complements food and won't overwhelm delicate chicken or seafood dishes. Domaine Cherrier and Domaine Fouassier also remain among my favorites.

Top sauvignon blancs are also found in Pouilly-Fume, and other bargains come from Touraine Sauvignon, Menetou-Salon, Quincy and Reuilly.

Vouvray. The delectable white wines of Vouvray are crafted from chenin blanc grapes in an array of styles, ranging from dry (sec), off dry (sec-tendre), and half-dry (demi-sec) to sweet (moelleux). Sparkling wines are also made and can be excellent.

While chenin blanc is one of the most under-appreciated grapes; the Loire Valley demonstrates the incredible richness, complexity and ability-to-age this variety yields.

Americans love spicy Indian and Asian foods. The best wines to complement these typically spicy dishes have some element of sweetness to them. 2008 Remy Pannier Vouvray ($13) perfectly matched a dinner of Indian food, taking the burn off the hot, spicy cuisine. Alcohol is a relatively low 11.5 percent, and its moderate sweetness is nicely balanced with a fine bit of compensating acidity.

Muscadet. Made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, Muscadet wines remain largely unknown among most American wine drinkers. However, few grapes rival Muscadet for its delicious flavors and food-friendliness at such a low price point. At around 12 percent alcohol, it's the perfect wine to go with oysters and other seafood.

Muscadet is usually racy and mineral, yet combines these elements in a delicate style, typically tasting slightly of tart lemon with savory almond flavors. Like all Loire valley whites, they are clean and fresh and are immensely satisfying.

2008 Chateau du Cleray Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($10) delivers perfect balance and subtle flavor with a lovely citrus touch on the back palate.

While largely unknown to most, some consumers know it. One suburban Boston retailer recently told me they sell 200 cases of Cleray a year. Surprising? Not if you taste it.

Bourgueil. Sure, it's true that the Loire is mostly known for its whites; however, there are worthwhile reds for serious consideration. Cabernet franc is the predominant red grape and, in the Loire, it aptly demonstrates the wonderful ability of this grape to create pleasant and desirable wines when made well.

Bourgueil and St. Nicolas de Bourgueil are two areas known for their enjoyingly drinkable cab francs. Frederic Mabileau's 2007 St. Nicolas de Bourgueil ($12) is a delightfully pleasant red with incredibly smooth notes of dark fruit. Easy drinking, it's tough to beat for the price.

This is a just a small sampling of the tasteful promise of Loire wines. Enjoy.

Mark P. Vincent is a Framingham, Mass., resident and MetroWest Daily News contributor. Contact him at winewisdom@yahoo.com.